As it was said in the beginning, we need to know where we are heading and what the needs and interests of our users of the garden are. We will analyze this in two phases. First, the interests and therapeutic needs and second, physical capabilities and needs.
Phase 1:
We will probably find two lists analyzing the interests and the occupational needs: one from the user´s point of view and one from the professionals. The choice list with drawings seen below is supposed to make the analysis of users’ interests easier, we can let the user circle interests in the chart
- What are the interests of the users?
- What are their favorite hobbies?
- What do they dislike?
The next question is what their tutors/therapists have identified as the service users’ therapeutic goals and needs). This could be for example:
- Attention to task
- Bilateral coordination
- Body awareness
- Core strength
- Executive functioning
- Fine motor skills
- Oral process
- Sensory processing
- Vestibular
- Emotional regulation
- Motivation
- Participation and social awareness
- Self esteem
I
mage 2. Example of poster to help analyze the users’ interests.
Phase 2:
We need to know about our users’ strengths and needs. We must have a general understanding to ensure the garden’s accessibility and adaptability.
- How many of the users use a wheelchair or a walker?
- How many of users have vision impairment?
- How many have mobility impairments?
- How many have intellectual disability?
- How many have dementia or cognitive decline?
How do I use this information in the design process?
Phase 1
Now you will have a list of wishes and ideas. This list will most likely reveal the age group of the users, and if not, it could be useful to have in mind. We may not fulfill everything in the “wish list” in the design, but we will try to put the interests and the occupational needs together in design modules and in a priority scale. For example, we have a group of younger adults with mild intellectual disability, their priority list might be:
- Physical activities (ball games, running and climbing)
- Collections (collect and organize stamps, flowers, stones…)
- Anti-stress and relaxing activities
- Social skills and communication
The conclusion is that we need quite a big space, module for active movements and maybe for games. But it is just as necessary to provide a second module where users and professionals can find peace and calm to practice and motivate communication and to work alone without distress. A specific module for handicraft projects could also be interesting for the service (patch work with stones, like mosaic, wood art etc.).
Phase 2
Designing for accessibility follows the principle of adaption of the space for the needs of the most dependent user. This means that with only one wheelchair user the garden should be wheelchair accessible in the majority of its areas. The same applies for those with vision impairments, dementia and so on. This does not mean there should not be any physical challenges in the garden, challenges should be placed intentionally and strategically for the service users’ benefit. An example could be an alternative path with different pavements to train balance. In the picture you see some of the conclusions of design consideration answering the question of user’s needs.
Image 3. User’s needs and design considerations. Diagram by Jardines Terapeuticos.
2.2 GET TO KNOW THE SOCIAL AND CULTURE CONTEXT
We want the users to feel at home and at ease in their new garden. Therefore, we try to use plants, stones and material common in the area where the garden is stationed in. For instance, in Portugal they love to use strong colors in combination with the plants, and in England everything is very “cottage like”, with little pots and arches over the paths. We therefore suggest a short research of our culture’s traditions.
What is typical in your region? Take a walk in your town and look at the houses and the parks. What do you see with your new eyes as a garden designer? Take pictures.
How do I use this information in the design process?
The information gathered in photos will guide you when choosing the materials for the elements in the garden.
Exemple:
We have decided to build a horticulture therapy module. We need raised beds. In northern Europe we will probably use wood for the structure. In southern Europe it could be stone or colored bricklayer.
2.3 UNDERSTAND THE PLACE, THE SITE AND THE PLOT
The analysis of the place is a continuation of 1.2, the culture context, but now we collect information in detail of the site where the therapeutic garden is going to be located.
To start this exercise, it is very useful if you have an existing scaled plan/map of the plot. Otherwise, you can draw the geometrical plan on a paper. The paper is not a MUST, because you can do this directly on the plot and then take pictures/photos.
A continuación, exploraremos nuestra parcela en 5 pasos. Cada paso nos llevará a una consideración/acción especial en nuestro proceso de diseño del jardín:
- Orientation sun/shade
- Wind and low temperature
- Uneven ground
- Soil characteristics
- Entries and exits
Orientation sun/shadow:
Orientation (cardinal directions) is important to be able to tell where and when you have sun and shade in the different parts of your plot. Learn to know the coordinates south, north, east and west. You need: Sun, clock, and a stick.
“If I stand facing like this and the sun warms my neck then I have north like the shadow on top of the hill and east is to the right and west is to the left and south is to the sun, warm and lovely”. (Swedish proverb)
Image 4. Doing your own sun compass.
Visit the plot in the morning and in the afternoon and learn about sunny and shaded areas. You can draw this information on a plan/map, or you can paint the ground with different spray colors or chalk and then take photos to remember.
How do I use this information in the design process?
Image 5. Orientation of the garden and design considerations. Diagram by Jardines Terapeuticos.
2. Wind and low temperature
To make continued use of the garden all year long we might need protection from wind and low temperatures in the garden. Carry out the following exercise:
- Check weather data base on your geographic zone. What are the predominate wind patterns and what are the average day temperature during the year.
- Put a wind flag on a pole at the plot and check morning and night the direction of the wind and the intensity.
How do I use this information in the design process?
Is there a predominant wind that could become unpleasant?
SÍ Your main social areas in the garden should be protected from the wind with shrubs or fences. You might want to consider a greenhouse to step into.
NO No special design consideration
Is the temperature lower that 10 º C daytime during a long period of time?
SÍ It is highly recommended to plan for a greenhouse to do activities during hard weather conditions. If these weather conditions, go on for several months it is good to choose a greenhouse that is extra isolated so it can be heated.
NO But maybe you have cold mornings and evenings? If it is so and the users are vulnerable, the design should keep in mind a pergola or greenhouse where you can open and close the walls.
3. Uneven ground
It is good to know if your garden plot has different heights. Measuring the differences in height levels can be simple and is recommended. Some differences in levels are so obvious and you see them directly and others are not. Still, they are important if we consider for example, drainage of the plot.
How do I measure height differences?[1]
You need a meter or a stick with marked distances, a level and a strong string. Of course, if you have a laser instrument to measure it is much easier and quicker.
Image 5. Measure height differences.
Jot down your results of the different points on your map with different colors or with different color sticks directly on the plot. Green sticks for ground that is even and the same level as the entrance of the garden. Blue sticks for places where the level of the ground differs more than 10 cm and red sticks where the ground levels differ more than 20 cm.
It is also recommended to observe the terrain. Is it greener in some spots? Is the grass higher or is there more vegetation? This usually means there is more water accumulation and it is a lower level than the surrounding area. You might want to indicate this on the plan or directly in the terrain.
How do I use this information in the design process?
Look at the distances between:
- Green and blue indications:
Less than 2 m = consider a ramp or a step or movements of ground soil.
More than 2 m = No action necessary.
- Green and red:
Less than 2 m. = steps or ramps necessary for wheelchair accessibility or movements of ground soil.
More than 4 m = no special consideration.
This information is mainly thought to give a hint of accessibility necessities while planning the garden, but it can also be used if there is a need of drainage. In this case we should indicate the lowest points and the highest points in the garden.
4. Soil characteristics
Soils vary enormously in characteristics, but the size of the particles that make up a soil defines its gardening characteristics:
- Clay: less than 0.002mm
- Silt: 0.002-0.05mm
- Sand: 0.05-2mm
- Stones: bigger than 2mm in size
- Chalky soils also contain calcium carbonate or lime
The best way to tell what type of soil you have is by touching it and rolling it in your hands.
Sandy soil has a gritty element – you can feel sand grains within it, and it falls through your fingers. It cannot be rolled into sausage shape. If it is not coarse sand, but a sandy loam it may stick together better.
Clay soil has a smearing quality and is sticky when wet. It is easily rolled into a long thin sausage and can be smoothed to a shiny finish by rubbing with a finger. If is it not a heavy clay it won’t get quite as shiny or be as easy to make a sausage shape.
Pure silt soils are rare, especially in gardens. They have a slightly soapy, slippery texture, and do not clump easily.
If soil froths when placed in a jar of vinegar, then it contains free calcium carbonate (chalk) or limestone and is lime rich.
Another important aspect of soil type is the pH (acidity or alkalinity). This will also affect the type of plants you can grow and how you manage your soil.
| Quick facts Clay soils are heavy, high in nutrients, wet and cold in winter and baked dry in summer Sandy soils are light, dry, warm, low in nutrients and often acidic Silt soils are fertile, light but moisture-retentive, and easily compacted Loams are mixtures of clay, sand and silt that avoid the extremes of each type Peat soils are very high in organic matter and moisture Chalky soils are very alkaline and may be light or heavy |
Source: Royal Horticultural Society. (s.f.). Soil types.
Recovered from https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/soil-types
Drainage
Finally, we should check the drainage capacity of the soil. This is important to avoid the formation of water puddles that makes it not accessible for wheelchairs and it can also cause the roots of the plants to rot if soaked in water for an extended period. So how do I check the drainage capacity of the soil?
Process to test garden soil drainage
Step 1: Dig a hole with approximately a 30 cm diameter and 30 cm deep. Try to keep the sides of the hole vertical.
Step 2: Fill the hole with water and let it drain overnight. It will take about 20 L of water to fill. This will saturate the surrounding soil, so that the real test will show true water drainage from your garden soil.
Step 3: The next morning, fill the hole with water. Then, lay a board or stick across the hole so that it sits flat. Measure and record either the initial depth of water, or the distance from the stick to the water. Also, note the starting time.
Step 4. Every hour, measure the distanced drained. You can do this by checking the distance from the bottom of the flat board to the water, or to the bottom of the hole. Just be consistent and record your measurements. Write down the time, and either the amount of water (height) in the hole.
Step 5. Calculate your drainage. Tally up your measurements into a sheet showing the amount of water drop over time.
Image 6: Drainage capacity. Source: https://growitbuildit.com/garden-soil-drainage-test-percolation
How do I use this information in the design process?
Interpreting the results of the soil classification
High percentage of sand- Add plenty of organic soil where you are going to plant. (10 cm/m2)
High percentage of clay- Add organic soil where you going to plant. (5 cm /m2)
pH or calk rich soil_ choose plants that tolerate high chalk level
Interpreting the results of the drainage test
Soil that drains 2.5-7.5 cm/hr is good for a vegetable garden. This is considered a good mix of drainage and water retention. Soils that drain in this range should hold enough moisture for plants during hot summer days without risk of roots rotting.
| Drainage rate | Result |
| < 2,5 cm /h | Drainage is too slow, drainage installation needs to be done |
| 2,5 -7,5 cm /h | Good drainage |
| > 10 cm /h | Drainage is too quick. Add organic soil to all plantations. |
5. Entry and exit of the garden
Accessibility in the garden is very important. But just as important is the access to the garden. Of course, this information is only possible to gather if the garden is located close to the building or a patio. If this is the case, we should investigate how you enter and how you exit the garden. Make signs on the map o directly on the plot where you find exits and entries and take notes of following three data:
- Is the entry accessible to wheelchairs?
- Is there a door that is easy to understand and easy to open?
- Is there a sign indicating the entrance?
How do I use this information in the design process?
Image 7. Consider entries and exits of the garden in the design process. Diagram by Jardines Terapeuticos.
[1] This method is only useful if your plot is less than 1000 m².