paisajes duros’. Estos paisajes se caracterizan por superficies predominantemente de hormigón y asfalto, cada vez más populares con bordes afilados y elementos de acero. En contraste, los ‘paisajes blandos’ representan una totalidad opuesta, incluyendo áreas con prados, vegetación y materiales orgánicos.
Es importante considerar que los paisajes blandos han demostrado reducir la incidencia de cáncer, obesidad, depresión y otras enfermedades (Stigdotter et al., 2011). Además, el entorno influye notablemente en las reacciones y el comportamiento de los individuos. Los paisajes blandos promueven un ritmo más sosegado, fomentando la observación y la relajación, mientras que los paisajes duros tienden a inducir un ritmo acelerado que puede generar sentimientos de agresividad y estrés.
Además de los beneficios psicológicos, la inclusión de superficies blandas con vegetación mejora la calidad de los espacios verdes en general, aportando:
- Aumento de la biodiversidad.
- Restauración de hábitats naturales.
- Reducción del efecto isla de calor.
- Disminución del escurrimiento de aguas pluviales.
- Fomento de la interacción positiva entre las personas y la naturaleza.
Saber todo esto tiene un gran valor a la hora de diseñar jardines terapéuticos. Por ello, debe haber un esfuerzo por mantener la proporción 40/60 de superficies duras/blandas. Este capítulo se dividirá en dos partes: superficies duras, en las que trataremos diferentes pavimentos para caminos, paseos y zonas para actividades, y superficies blandas, en las que trataremos la calidad del suelo y la preparación del terreno antes de plantar.
Una vez decidido qué pavimentos y qué tipo de tierra aplicar, puede ser una buena idea crear un mapa especial del jardín en el que se puedan consultar las distintas superficies durante la construcción del jardín curativo. Véase más abajo en las imágenes.
- Aumento de la biodiversidad.
- Restauración de hábitats naturales.
- Reducción del efecto isla de calor.
- Disminución del escurrimiento de aguas pluviales.
- Fomento de la interacción positiva entre las personas y la naturaleza.
Saber todo esto tiene un gran valor a la hora de diseñar jardines terapéuticos. Por ello, debe haber un esfuerzo por mantener la proporción 40/60 de superficies duras/blandas. Este capítulo se dividirá en dos partes: superficies duras, en las que trataremos diferentes pavimentos para caminos, paseos y zonas para actividades, y superficies blandas, en las que trataremos la calidad del suelo y la preparación del terreno antes de plantar.
Una vez decidido qué pavimentos y qué tipo de tierra aplicar, puede ser una buena idea crear un mapa especial del jardín en el que se puedan consultar las distintas superficies durante la construcción del jardín curativo. Véase más abajo en las imágenes.
Image 27. Legend of hard and soft surfaces in the garden. Indication of the kind of pavements, type of soil and the depth needed. Map by JTP.
Hard surfaces
Hard surfaces are key features in all outdoor areas because they provide a safe surface to walk on as well as a directional guide for people with impaired memory or vision. Level, non-slip and with no trip hazards, surfaces need to feel and look safe. A smooth and nonreflecting surface is important. Achieving this is not always easy without making it difficult for people who walk with a shuffling gait or who use walking aids.
Color contrast edging can be helpful for people whose eyesight may be impaired. If such edging should be raised to prevent walking frames with wheel to run off the edge of the path could be discussed. Raised edges could lead to additional costs and may also cause trip hazards.
The color of the pavement should be of concern in the Healing Garden, as it is common for certain tones to cause glare. If concrete, slabs or pavers are selected as pathway material, they should be tinted. Asphalt does not create glare problems except for when it is wet. However, asphalt is not very aesthetically pleasing.
Another critical issue when selecting materials for paving could be those areas where people use a walking frame or other walking aids. It is important to avoid cracks and expansion joints. Expansion joints in concrete should never be more than 4 mm wide. Jointing of slabs is not recommended since it causes problems with weed growth in the long term.
The following are pavement material suggestions with a short description, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of each. It is meant to be a guide and not a technical description.
Decomposed granite
Decomposed granite is an ideal material for firm pathways where a natural look is preferred. It’s where hardscape meets softscape: a durable surface with natural qualities. Its resilience to high traffic wear and tear works well for pathways that carry pedestrians and vehicles on a daily basis. It is affordable, environmentally friendly, and an aesthetically pleasing alternative to traditional hardscape materials. Commonly known as DG, decomposed granite is granite that is naturally broken down into gravel and sand by millions of years of pressure underground. Solid quarry rock and recycled materials can also be carefully crushed, sized, and blended into aggregates that mimic decomposed granite composition, so you have even more natural colors to choose from.
The DG should have a depth of 10 cm and must be used on a pre worked surface, for example a 10 cm compressed aggregate/road base (Zahorra). This means, for pedestrian areas, removal of any existing surface material to excavate around 20 cm from the end of the graded slope. Keep in mind that this will create many m3 of rest materials…
Edging
Edging must be used to separate adjacent soil or sand from the decomposed granite. The edgings could be made of any materials such as pavers, hardened wood* or metal. Steel or aluminum metal edging will hold its shape and its versatility enables you to create any radius you need when it comes to garden beds or pathway curvatures. With its strength, metal edging won’t crack in the cold, shift with maintenance, or erode over time.
If the purpose of the edge is to facilitate the orientation for those with visual impairments or balance difficulties for example, we advise using a different from the path so it stands out.
*Ground pressure-treated wood, for example wood stamp with UC4 (American Wood Protection Association), if it will be buried. Then you know it is treated for ground contact.
Image 28. Decomposed granite must be packed very well if to be used by wheelchairs. Photo JTP
Advantage: cheaper than any other pavements, easy to repair, natural look with the color of your nature (use of autochthonous rocks ), It is possible to establish this pavement by yourself, although you need a special machine to compress.
Disadvantage: Could become soft when it rains a lot. Nor recommendable where you use walking aids, while little tiny stones sometimes could give a feeling of insecurity.
Stabilized Decomposed granite
Crushed granite can be stabilized with natural binders such as Organic-Lock and Stabilizer Solutions. These binders help create a durable surface that resists the erosive powers of weather or heavy traffic—all while maintaining the natural aesthetic you may have been going for in the first place.
Advantage: The surface will keep a natural look of granite. The surface will not become soft when it is raining
Disadvantage: If there is a damage to the surface it is difficult to repair without redoing a big part of the paved area.
Imprinted Concrete
Pattern Imprinted Concrete is a technique of incorporating colors and patterns to freshly poured concrete on patios and paving, re-creating the look of authentic materials such as stone, slate, and timber without the associated high cost of these natural products.
You install the concrete on a compacted and stable sub-base /road base (10 cm). After placing drainage, a high strength fiber matrix concrete is laid and levelled to create a 2 % slope for natural drainage. There are several techniques. Some companies use steel construction nets to give the right angle to the paths before pouring the concrete.
After giving the desired printing, the surface is treated with a wax sealing.
It is Important to use stress cuts to minimize the risk of surface cracks, they work by absorbing the natural movement that occurs in the land.
The preparation is the same as for other pavements, removal of any existing surface material to excavate around 20 cm from the end of the graded slope. Keep in mind that this will create many square meters of rest materials for recycling.
Image 29. Imprinted Concrete. Photo JTP
Advantage: Quick to install. Cheaper than using paving stones, high variety of prints and colors, establishes a firm surface for everyone to use safely.
Disadvantage: Must be established by professionals and during specific weather conditions for optimal results. Access for machinery is necessary. For example, this could be difficult in patios with NO access to the street other than through the buildings. Frost could be an issue when it comes to long lasting results. Re-sealing may be necessary every 2-3 year to maintain an optimal finish.
Paving stone and natural stone
Paving stones and natural stones will give the longest lasting and elegant result. If your area is known to have a tradition in paving with natural stone, this could be an interesting option.
Just as for all the other pavements, it is necessary to remove any grass or existing hardscape surfaces of the area where you will lay your pavers. For pedestrian areas, excavate 20 cm from the end of the graded slope. Use a level to grade the area at a 2 percent slope to ensure proper water drainage.
A strong sub-base is essential for a long-lasting, structurally sound paver installation. A tamper or plate compactor to compact the soil or gravel is needed. This should be poured in increments of 4-5 cm, compacting twice with plate compactor before pouring the next 4 cm.
After laying the road base, one should hose it down and compact it until it reaches a compaction level of 95%.
Finally, before laying the chosen paves on, sharp angled bedding sand should be poured over the entire base. Important that the screened sand is leveled before moving on.
Advantage: A long lasting pavement with excellent performance. Very nice possibility to use the traditional stones from the geographic area.
Disadvantage: It is expensive. Professional installation is highly recommended. If you like to use curves and organic forms, it is difficult to make a perfect cut to many paving stones.
Slopes and ramps
Slopes need to be gradual with highly visible handrails provided to ensure people feel steady and comfortable. See also current legislation for each country, although handrails are usually demanded for any slope of 1:20 or greater. In addition, it is a good idea to provide steps as an alternative to ramps.
Soft Surfaces
By soft surfaces here we are referring to all surfaces occupied by plants in the garden. These are some factors to consider when adding or improving the soil:
- Choice of plants; different plants thrive with different types of soil.
- How you plan to grow the plants—in a raised bed, directly on the existing ground or in a pot.
- Size of your plants, which will decide the depth of good soil that is needed.
In therapeutic gardens the soft surfaces are very important as they strive for a very high biodiversity of plants at all levels: ground levels, raised planters and shrubs, tresses, and climbers. The following are two titles / two options for establishing soft Surfaces: Planting directly on the ground or Planting in raised beds. Usually there is a combination of both in a therapeutic garden. The choice of using planters or raised beds and in what percentage depends on:
- Aging population or wheel chairs users.
- Type of soil. In very hard clay soil it would be expensive and difficult to prepare and cultivate and easier to raise the planters.
- Contaminated soil.
- No help with maintenance
Planting directly on the ground
All trees and shrubs are usually planted directly in the ground. Plants like flowers, perennials and vegetables and even small shrubs could be planted in raised beds or planters. See title “planting in raised beds”.
This means that one will always have to consider, first, the demands of the soil the trees and shrubs have, and second, the depth of the soil layer needed. In the following table, you will find a recommendation for soil depth for different vegetables, normal soil depth recommended for trees and shrubs, and directly after, we provide recommendations of plants suitable for different soil types.
If the soil on the site of the therapeutic garden is decent, one could perfectly mix the existing soil with fertilizer, more organic materials or sand, whatever is needed.
Soil depth requirements for different vegetable products:
| Shallow Rooting | Medium Rooting | Deep Rooting |
| 25-35 cm | 35-45 cm | 45 + cm |
| Arugula | Beans, dry | Artichokes |
| Broccoli | Beans, pole | Asparagus |
| Brussel sprouts | Beans, snap | Beans, lima |
| Cabbage | Beets | Okra |
| Cauliflower | Cantaloupe | Parsnips |
| Celery | Carrots | Pumpkins |
| Chinese cabbage | Chard | Rhubarb |
| Corn | Cucumber | Squash, winter |
| Endive | Eggplant | Sweet potatoes |
| Garlic | Kale | Tomatoes |
| Kohlrabi, Bok Choy | Peas | Watermelon |
| Lettuce | Peppers | |
| Onions, Leeks | Rutabagas | |
| Potatoes | Squash, summer | |
| Radishes | Turnips | |
| Spinach |
Shrubs and big perennials (80-150 cm): 40 -60 cm
Trees: 100 cm *
*Trees are usually planted in a hole and therefore it is NOT necessary to plan for this depth of soil layer in the garden. See chapter about plants.
Source: https://learn.eartheasy.com/guides/raised-beds-soil-depth-requirements/
Demand of soil
Loamy soil
Loamy soil has a great structure for planting, it has a good amount of drainage, it retains moisture, and it holds nutrients fairly well. Its drainage properties mean that nutrients wash out and you will need to add nutrients back into the soil, so add compost often. Also, loamy soil tends to be acidic.
Pros: Loamy soil has great structure and drain s well. It also holds nutrients well, though they can wash out at a moderate rate.
Cons: Loamy soil is acidic, and you’ll need to add nutrients to help plants thrive. Plants like cacti don’t like loamy soil.
Trees suitable for loamy soil: Pine species, soft maple, honey locust, cottonwood, willow,
Shrubs: Rose, sumac, honeysuckle, hazel, hortensia, azalea and juniper
What Thrives in Loamy Soil?
Climbers
Vegetables
Berries
Root Crops
What Struggles in Loamy Soil?
Tomatoes, after the seedling stage
Green Beans
Late-growing cabbage and brassicas
Cacti
Chalky soil
When compared to other soils, chalky soil has larger grains and a stony feel. Usually, it overlays limestone bedrock or chalk, so it’s free draining. Chalky soil is alkaline, so it can cause plants to experience stunted growth, as well as yellowish leaves.
It is possible to change chalky soil, but it takes some work, like adding organic fertilizers and balancing the pH levels. Add humus to the ground to help improve water retention and to improve the workability of the soil.
Pros: Chalky soil is a champion at draining well. It’s also easy to work.
Cons: Chalky soil is alkaline, so plants that need acidic soil won’t do well. It also leaches out iron and magnesium.
Trees suitable for chalky soil: Apple Trees, Pear, Cherry, Ginkgo, Pine, Beech, Common Oak
Shrubs: Lavender, Rosemary, Buddleia, Ceanothus
What Thrives in Chalky Soil?
- Spinach
- Beets
- Sweet Corn
- Cabbage
- Lilacs
What Struggles in Chalky Soil?
- Blueberries
- Tomatoes
Sandy soil
Sandy soil often requires some organic amendments like organic fertilizer blends, glacial rock dust, or kelp meal. It is also a good idea to add mulch to gardens with sandy soil because it helps retain moisture.
Pros: Sandy soil drains well and warms up fast. It’s ideal for seedlings and it’s easy to dig in.
Cons: Nutrients drain away quickly in sandy soil. It’s not as fertile as other types, and it dries out quickly.
Some of the best trees for dry, sandy soils are maple trees, cercis, grafted cotoneaster trees, eucalyptus, hawthorn, laburnum, magnolia, oak, flowering cherry trees, robinia, silver birch and sorbus trees.
What Thrives in Sandy Soil?
- Vegetable root crops, such as carrots, potatoes, and parsnips
- Lettuce
- Strawberries
- Corn
- Squash
What Struggles in Sandy Soil?
- Cabbage
- Broccoli
- Peas
Clay
The biggest problem with clay soil is its low draining qualities and lack of air pockets. Imagine molding clay; it’s thick and dense. That is what clay soil is like. Also, clay earth takes time to warm up in the spring, and it’s difficult to cultivate.
On the positive side, if gardeners enhance the drainage for the soil, then clay soil is fantastic for growing because it provides plenty of nutrients to the plants. This means that in a therapeutic garden it might be the most preferable soil type many interesting shrubs and perennials to thrive in.
- Pros: Water doesn’t drain as fast as some other types of soil.
- Cons: Soil can become waterlogged, and it takes time to warm up. It’s also harder to dig in.
Trees suitable for clay soil: Usually the same as chalky soils, tree families such as Malus, Sorbus, Alnus, Betula,cornus lousa, magnolia, Japanese maple, cotoneaster.
What thrives in clay soil?
- Summer crop vegetables
- Fruit trees
- Ornamental trees
- Perennials
- Aster
- Bergamot
What struggles in clay soil?
- Carrots
- Parsnips
- Soft berries
If you don’t want to create raised beds, here are some solutions:
1. Adjust the pH Level
Most plants prefer a neutral soil, but some favor slightly acid or alkaline soils. Adjusting the levels help make the soil more hospitable to the plants you want to grow.
- To make the soil more alkaline, add ground lime.
- To make the soil more acidic, add aluminum sulfate or sulfur.
2. Adding Nutrients
Some soils, such as sandy soil, lose their nutrients quickly, so you need to add more. Organic matter, like compost and rotted manure, enriches the ground while also improving the texture. In the case of sandy soil, adding compost makes the soil hold onto moisture longer.
You also can use organic mulches, like grass clippings and shredded leaves. Organic mulches break down over time, sending nutrients into the soil and improving the soil structure.
3. Increasing Drainage
If your soil is holding onto too much water, you need to increase the drainage. Some gardeners add compost or sand to the earth to help it drain better. Mixing soil types can create an ideal situation.
4. Retaining More Moisture
On the other hand, sometimes soil drains too quickly, so you need to help it retain moisture. One way to do that is by using organic mulches around your plants. Not only does mulch help to retain moisture, but it will change the soil structure. You can also add peat moss or compost to help retain moisture.
Source: https://morningchores.com/types-of-soil/
Planting in raised beds[2]
In a garden for persons with sight problems or physical limitation it is recommended that the majority of the perennials and flowers be planted in raised beds along paths or other pavements that make them reachable. See picture.
Image 30. Raised beds in Hälsoträdgarden , Kristianstad, Sweden. Photo Karin Palmlof
Since the height recommended for planters and raised beds does not always match the soil depth, there could be a need for filling. This filling substrate is important as it can help keep moisture in the raised beds. It is also important not to use soil with that contains weeds or other seeds. Another important aspect could be the weight of the soil. If we are implementing the healing garden on a terrace or on top of a garage, the filling substrate recommended is expanded clay or similar and the end weight of the mixed substrate should be calculated at kg/m2 being humid.
It is common to use a lasagna method to fill up the raised bed. Leaves and grass clippings are great bulk organic materials which can be layered into the lower regions of tall raised beds, where they will slowly compost over time into rich soil. Aim for two parts shredded leaves to one-part grass clippings. Add grass clippings in thin layers to prevent matting. Straw (not hay, which contains seeds), wood chips, or shredded bark could be included as well.
Once the beds are full to within 6-12 inches of the top, add a compostable barrier such as untreated cardboard (it prevents your good soil from sifting down too quickly) and then fill the remainder with your chosen soil mix. Next year, you will find the soil level has sunk due to the decomposition and settling of the lower layers, so you will have plenty of room to add a fresh layer of compost on top.
Eventually, the lower layers can be turned over and used as a soil amendment. If working with extra-deep containers instead of raised beds, you can add an inert “filler” to the bottom of the container, such as bricks, milk jugs, or stones. Cover the filler with landscape fabric, which will enable drainage but prevent soil loss, before adding your chosen soil mix.
[1] Comprueba la calidad de la madera enterrándola a presión. Un ejemplo es la madera sellada con UC4 (American Wood Protection Association). Así sabrás que está tratado para estar en contacto con el suelo.
[2] How to build raised beds and different recommended measurements will be detailed in the chapter on furniture.
[3] The way to build the raised beds and the different recommended measures will be detailed in the chapter dedicated to furniture..